Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer share the same settings tree, so this covers both. Switch the mode selector at the top right from Simple to Advanced first, or you will not see half of these.
Start from the 0.20 mm Standard profile and change only what is below.
The list
| Setting | Where | Value |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | Quality | 0.2 mm |
| Wall loops | Strength | 2 |
| Sparse infill density | Strength | 10 percent |
| Top shell layers | Strength | 3 |
| Bottom shell layers | Strength | 3 |
| Outer wall speed | Speed | 30 mm/s |
| Elephant foot compensation | Quality, Precision | 0.15 mm |
| Wall generator | Quality, Precision | Arachne |
| Seam position | Quality, Seam | Aligned or Rear |
| Z hop type | Others, or the filament's travel settings | Normal |
| Supports | Support | Off |
Elephant foot compensation is positive here
This one catches people moving from Cura. In Cura the equivalent setting is Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion and you enter a negative number. In Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer, Elephant foot compensation takes a positive number for the amount to shrink by.
Enter 0.15, not -0.15. Entering a negative value here makes the base spread more, which is the opposite of what you want.
Check the wall generator
Wall generator under Quality, Precision should be Arachne. Arachne varies the extrusion width so a 0.8 mm wall prints as two solid lines. Classic uses a fixed width and will either leave a gap down the middle of the blade or drop a wall, and a blade with a gap down the middle splits the first time you press it.
Slice and check the preview at half blade height before committing to a print.
Bambu specific notes
- Print an X1 or P1 slower than you think. The default profiles are tuned for speed and a 12.5 mm tall, 0.8 mm wide wall is exactly the geometry that input shaping does not save you from. 30 mm/s on the outer wall costs a few minutes and removes the ripples.
- The AMS is not doing you any favours here. A cutter is a single colour part. Printing it as a multi colour job adds a purge tower that can use more filament than the cutter.
- Seam position on Aligned puts the layer start point in one vertical line. On a cutter that line is on the blade, so it becomes a visible ridge that transfers to the dough. Setting it to Rear on a symmetrical shape, or Aligned and then rotating the model so the seam lands somewhere unimportant, gives a cleaner cut edge.
- Scarf joint seam, if your version has it under Quality, Seam, genuinely helps here. It ramps the seam over a distance instead of starting and stopping at a point.
- Do not enable Ironing. A cutter has almost no flat top surface, so it adds time for nothing. It is worth turning on for the flat back of a stamp if you want a smooth finish there.
OrcaSlicer specific notes
Everything above applies. Two extras:
- Precise wall under Quality, Precision improves dimensional accuracy on thin walls. It is worth turning on for a cutter.
- Slow down for curled overhangs can trigger unhelpfully on the blade taper. If your print time jumps and the taper looks over cooled, turn it off.